“(Niizawa) ended up with a sake that is a 0.85% polishing ratio, which, by law, they can call it 0%.
So, if a typical Junmai Daigingo, or ultra-premium “pure sake,” is polished at 50.4%, they call it 50%. “In saké law, you round down to the nearest hundredth (regarding rice) polishing ratio,” Fuerth explains. Topping the list: Absolute Zero by Niizawa Sake Brewery. “Hibiscus flower yeast gives it that tart, red-fruit profile,” Fuerth notes.
One selection that has Aspen aglow: rosé saké, made from purple (black) rice by the Amabuki Shuzo Co. Aesthetic diversity is really important glassware (is) used with intent.” (Champagne, Burgundy and fine international wines are featured as well.) “We’ll finish with something robust, rustic and full-bodied in a Bordeaux glass. “Generally, we start on lighter, cleaner (saké), in a white wine glass, then move into something more floral, aromatic, in a Burgundy bowl,” says Sushi Nakazawa corporate beverage director Dean Fuerth. Now, word of mouth has come around and people are putting trust into what we do.”Īs Nakazawa Aspen focuses on true Japanese cuisine, saké-the country’s signature beverage crafted from fermented rice-is the natural pairing. Last season, he says, “We were the new kids on the block, there was reluctancy to try the tasting menu or trust us with the saké. In April, the group’s corporate beverage director Dean Fuerth told Wine Spectator, “It’s been on fire since we opened the doors.”Ĭhen notes that the “turn-and-burn synergy” of Aspen’s dining scene only pushed the team to elevate and refine for the longer term.
(The original two locations were closed due to restrictions on indoor dining the Nakazawa Aspen transition happened within 30 days, says partner Chadwick.) Even amid social distancing protocols, the Aspen property flourished. Grey Lady owner Ryan Chadwick famously invited chef Daisuke to Aspen via Instagram DM. Spawned in December 2020 by an earthquake of sorts (the coronavirus pandemic), the third outpost of the Michelin-starred hot spots in New York City and Washington, D.C., was originally envisioned as a wintertime pop-up. Their front-of-house team, which absorbed many workers furloughed from other restaurants last year, is tight.Ī “perfect tsunami” best describes the origin story of Nakazawa Aspen. He and general manager John Bukac, a fixture at Matsuhisa for a decade, are focused on matching the level of service to the attention to detail in the food. “They are the most creative, talented, hardworking people I’ve ever met,” enthuses assistant general manager Sam Hayes. These might include black cod with turnips, nori and preserved lemon A5 Wagyu beef in multiple preparations and soon, duck braised in soy, saké, mirin and finished on the binchotan charcoal grill. Every day we’re trying to add elements to the dish.”Ĭoncurrent with the omakase offering, available in front of Chen at the 10-seat sushi bar ($250) and now throughout the restaurant ($185), Nakazawa recently launched a new menu of à la carte items. Then we add goma, Japanese sesame paste, their version of a tahini, and olive oil to make it super silky. Add dashi, a Japanese broth of kombu and bonito flakes, (for) umami. The tentacle sits on a dollop of what Chen has dubbed “Japanese hummus,” a source of pride and joy: “Sauté onion and garlic in a lot of butter,” Chen shares. “We play off of each other.”Ĭonsider the octopus: It’s slow-poached in saké, mirin and soy sauce, which lends an incredibly soft texture, then flash-fried for exterior crispiness. “His mind works very much in the same way that mine does,” Chen says. June 22 2021Aspen CONakazawa SushiMatt Power Photography
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